Holiday in Hanoi , Vietnam

Hanoi

Hanoi

Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is a fascinating blend of East and West, with a mix of Chinese and French influences enriching the vibrant Vietnamese culture. Largely unspoiled by modern development, Hanoi is a rising star in Southeast Asia and has much to offer the tourist.

Crossing busy Hanoi streets with this degree of calm takes years of practice (flickr user welsh boy)

Getting to Know Hanoi

Geography and Weather

Hanoi is located in northern Vietnam on the right bank of the Red River, about 1,100 miles north of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Summers are hot, humid and often rainy, while winters are relatively cool and dry. Temperatures in winter can dip to the low forties, not including wind chill, while summer can get as hot as 100-104°F.

People

Hanoi's population of about 3.4 million is constantly growing (about 3.5% per year), a reflection of the fact that the city is both the economic heart of northern Vietnam and also the country's political center. Long-time residents of Hanoi are increasingly rare, even in the Old Quarter, where merchant families have lived for generations. Now, established merchants are just as likely to rent their storefront space and live elsewhere.

There's an abundance of smiles in Vietnam (flickr user welsh boy)

Vietnam is still a socialist country, but you'll find that Hanoians, like many Vietnamese, have embraced capitalism with gusto.

History

Hanoi has been capital of Vietnam for nearly a thousand years, during which the city has endured numerous invasions, occupations, restorations and name changes. The Chinese ruled Hanoi and much of Vietnam off and on for centuries, until a Vietnamese general named Le Loi finally secured the nation's independence in 1428. It wasn't until 1831 that the Nguyen Dynasty renamed the city Ha Noi, which can be translated as Between Rivers or River Interior.

A woman wearing the traditional conical hat, called a "non la," or leaf hat (flickr user flydime)

Vietnam's independence ended in the mid-1800s, when the country was colonized by the French. Hanoi became capital of French Indochina in 1887. The French administration imposed significant political and cultural changes on Vietnamese society. A Western-style system of modern education was developed, and Christianity was introduced into Vietnamese society. Developing a plantation economy to promote the exports of tobacco, indigo, tea and coffee, the French largely ignored increasing calls for self-government and civil rights. A nationalist political movement soon emerged, with leaders such as Phan Boi Chau, Phan Chu Trinh, Emperor Ham Nghi and Ho Chi Minh calling for independence.

From 1940 to 1945 the Japanese occupied Hanoi and the rest of Vietnam, exploiting the country for its natural resources. With the end of World War II, the French resumed control of their colony. In response, Ho Chi Minh launched a liberation movement that led to eight bloody years of war with France. The French finally withdrew in 1954, leaving Vietnam divided in half at the 17th parallel, with Ho Chi Minh's communist Democratic Republic of Vietnam based in the north, and the Republic of Vietnam in the south. The stage was set for the bitter Vietnam War, which effectively ended in 1975 when North Vietnamese forces captured the Republic of Vietnam's capital, Saigon. Hanoi became the capital of Vietnam when North and South Vietnam were formally reunited on July 2, 1976.

Colonial buildings like this one are a reminder of French influence in Vietnam

Things to See in Hanoi

As the capital of Vietnam for almost a thousand years, Hanoi is the cultural center of Vietnam. Despite the battles that have raged around it, Hanoi retains much of its historic charm. Hanoi boasts more cultural sites than any city in Vietnam, including over 600 pagodas and temples and some delightful French colonial buildings.

• The Old Quarter, near Hoan Kiem Lake, is a thriving, chaotic tangle of streets dating to the 13th century. Each street was originally home to merchants specializing in a particular trade, such as jewelry, silver, baskets, and silks, and the street names today reflect these industries, even if the same products are no longer offered there. The Old Quarter is still famous for its artisans and merchants. Look for the guild houses dotting the area, whose tranquil courtyards and temples offer a nice break from the busy streets. The Dong Xuan market, the city's largest, is found in the heart of the district and is open for business every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday evening, with a huge variety of clothing, souvenirs and food for sale.

  The Old Quarter is most enjoyable when you put away your map and simply wander the maze of lanes, soaking up the cultural essence of Hanoi.



The red roofs of Hanoi's Old Quarter make for a charming skyline

• Lakes: Hanoi has many scenic lakes and is sometimes called "City of Lakes," the most famous of which are Hoan Kiem Lake, West Lake, Halais Lake, and Bay Mau Lake. At Hoan Kiem Lake you can join in on a martial arts session, do some tai chi exercises, or simply stroll. West Lake, the largest lake in Hanoi, is the city's Beverly Hills, with many trendy restaurants and clubs in the area. It's also home to Vietnam's oldest pagoda, Tran Quoc, which was built in the 6th century on an island in the middle of the lake. A boddhi tree seeded from the tree under which Buddha achieved enlightenment grows in the courtyard.



The imposing pagoda of Tran Quoc

• French colonial architecture: Hanoi was the capital of French Indonchina from 1887 to 1954, and the city retains some beautiful colonial buildings from that period. Good examples include the Grand Opera House, the State Bank of Vietnam (formerly the Bank of Indochina), the Presidential Palace (formerly the palace of the governor-general of French Indochina), the Cathédrale St-Joseph, and historic hotel Sofitel Metropole.



The Presidential Palace, built between 1901 and 1906, was the home of the French governor-general of Indochina. For symbolic reasons, Ho Chi Minh refused to live in it (flickr user callmeack).

• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: Ho Chi Minh City in the south may have his name, but only Hanoi has the man himself, embalmed and dressed in distinctly Lenin-esque fashion. No talking, short pants, or other signs of disrespect are allowed while viewing; photos of the large concrete-and-granite structure are permitted only from outside, in the grand Ba Dinh Square.



Reminiscent of Lenin's tomb in Red Square, Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum reflects his venerated status in Vietnam

• Ho Chi Minh Museum: Right around the corner from the mausoleum, this gleaming white museum and its gloriously ham-handed iconography are the perfect chaser to the solemnity of the mausoleum. The museum displays personal items and photos from Ho Chi Minh's life, housed in a building, completed in 1990, which is intended to evoke a white lotus.
• Ho Chi Minh's residence: Rather than occupy the spectacular Presidential Palace, former home of the French colonial governor, Ho instead chose to live nearby in a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, overlooking a small pond. He was resident here from 1958 to his death in 1969.



Ho Chi Minh's presence is felt everywhere in Hanoi. Today, he's revered less for his socialist ideals and more for his leadership in unifying and liberating Vietnam (flickr user Ianz).

• One-Pillar Pagoda: First built in 1049, the One-Pillar Pagoda honors Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the goddess of mercy.



It can be mobbed by tourists, but One-Pillar Pagoda is well worth a visit (flickr user thalling55)

• The Temple of Literature, an excellent example of Chinese and Vietnamese architecture, was founded in 1070 to honor the Chinese philosopher Confucius. It was established as the country's first university six years later. The courtyard features 82 stone tablets, each mounted on the back of a carved tortoise, with the names of graduates from the years 1484 to 1780.



The Temple of Literature is not only an interesting sight but a great place to take a break from the hectic city (flickr user satbir)

• Hoa Lo Prison ("The Hanoi Hilton"): Built by the French at the turn of the 20th century, this is where the French imprisoned and executed many Vietnamese during the war for independence. Later, the prison was used to hold U.S. prisoners of war, including U.S Senator John McCain. The prison is now a museum highlighting the struggle of the Vietnamese people against imperialism.
• Army Museum: This museum celebrates the role of the Vietnamese Army in the country's battles for independence. In addition to historic photos, there are numerous bombs, aircraft, guns and tanks on display, including one of the tanks that charged through the gates of the presidential palace in Saigon on April 30, 1975, an event which marked the end of the Vietnam War.



Military history buffs especially will enjoy the Army Museum (flickr user Ianz)

• Vietnam National Museum of Fine Arts: For visitors with an interest in the arts, this museum, housed in a beautiful colonial building, is a must-see. There's a nice mix of Vietnamese traditional crafts such as lacquerware and silk painting, as well as some impressive historic artifacts. One highlight is an 11th century statue of the goddess of mercy, Kouan Yin, with a thousand arms and eyes. There are explanations in English.
• Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: Vietnam is home to 53 ethnic minorities, and this museum sheds light on their history and culture. In back of the museum are re-constructions of traditional village homes.

Although auto traffic is growing in Hanoi, many residents still get around as these women do: on two wheels (flickr user Ruud!)

Things to See Near Hanoi

If you have more time, or you're just eager to escape the city crowds, there are some interesting sights near Hanoi that will make your trip to Vietnam even more memorable:

• The Perfume Pagoda is a Buddhist pilgrimage site about 40 miles southwest of Hanoi. A full-day excursion involves a boat trip, hiking up a mountain, and visiting various temples and grottoes.
• Bat Trang is a village world-famous for its pottery, five miles southeast of Hanoi.
• Cuc Phuong National Park is the largest national park in Vietnam, with a great diversity of flora and fauna. It's an easy day-trip from Hanoi.
• Ha Long Bay: Staying overnight on a boat on the breathtaking Ha Long Bay (or in a hotel on Cat Ba Island) is a great way to experience this scenic area, the most popular side trip from Hanoi.
• Sapa: The northern village of Sapa, home to ethnic minorities, gorgeous mountain scenery, and trekking paths connecting many tiny mountain villages, is also a popular two or three day trip. The trekking paths have no signs, so a hiring a guide is well-advised.

If you have time you should consider a visit to nearby Ha Long Bay, with its unforgettable rock formations (flickr user pellaea)

Eating

Food sits at the very epicenter of Vietnamese culture: in every significant holiday on the Vietnamese cultural calendar, all the important milestones in a Vietnamese person's life, and indeed, most of the important day-to-day social events and interactions, food plays a central role. Special dishes are prepared and served with great care for every birth, marriage and death, and the anniversaries of ancestors' deaths. More business deals are struck over dinner tables than over boardroom tables, and when friends get together, they eat together. Preparing food and eating together remains the focus of family life.

The most famous example of Vietnamese cuisine is pho--pho ga (chicken noodle soup) or pho bo (beef noodle soup). In Hanoi you'll find various other dishes which include chicken, beef, fish and seafood.

Pho bo--beef noodle soup--is a very popular, delicious meal (flickr user panduh)

Coffee, baguettes, and pastries were originally introduced by the French colonials, but all three have been localized and remain popular contemporary aspects of Vietnamese cuisine. Bánh mì Hanoi are freshly-baked white bread baguettes filled with grilled meats or liver or pork pâté, plus fresh herbs and vegetables. Most pastry shops also serve a variety of sweets and quick foods.

A typical Vietnamese meal in the Old Quarter might look like this--notice the refreshing hot towel in the plastic wrapper (flickr user hermmermferm)

A local delicacy in the Hanoi area is dog meat, which is especially popular in the winter. There are a number of restaurants along the Red River that specialize in it. Another exotic regional taste is ca cuong, an extract from the belostomatid, or giant water bug. Just a few drops are added to noodles for the unique aroma.

There are thousands of restaurants in Hanoi catering to everyone's taste. Go easy on the really exotic foods until your digestive system has had some time to adjust.

Little vegetable stalls like this one abound in Hanoi, so if the exotic meats aren't to your taste you're never far from fresh fruits and vegetables

Source: Wikitravel.org, licensed under the GFDL

All flickr photos are licensed under the Creative Commons